Friday, May 23, 2014

Tonle Sap

 Today the geography teacher in me takes over.
In my younger days, when I delivered geography lessons in class, I always told my students to imagine.
When we mention the Mekong, Irrawaddy and lakes, we often told them that where there is water, there is life.Indeed, the water features in most countries are hubs of activities and livelihood.
Bunleat took us to the heart of the country; Tonle Sap; a lake perhaps of a size bigger than the island of Singapore.
I recalled visiting in my earlier trip in 2010 but I witnessed a different scenario when Bunleat took us along a different route . He is not a commercial guide; he wants us to see the realities of the lake and so we witnessed different aspects of Tonle Sap.

Apparently there are about 4 to 5 routes into Tonle Sap.

 We were taken through Kampong Khleang community path.

 I have not seen this village before; the stilt Village. You wonder why the houses are built on top of such stilts. Very naturally we related it to floods. Yes, we were informed that for several months during the Monsoon rains, water can rise up to as high as 10 feet and so the villagers are all prepared for the annual phenomenon. Mankind is such right? We put up with challenges by providing the best solutions.

 That's the family again. Dad and I were glad we could spend some family time together. I do not have to explain the complexities of gathering together. It's either I have this or you don't have that. So, we promise not to fight and argue; just accommodate and suppress too many opinions. Peace.


So the parents and daughters flocked into the vessel that led us to savour in the ins and outs of the local gem in the lake.The guide took pains to explain and express and in between the lines we read his heart.



That's the first indication of medical help. A yacht provides the locals facilities for small ailments and the local doctor dispenses his duties faithfully.


Primitive and effective; fishes and the like are caught with this simple manner. I believe the fishermen are not done away with this method as long as the catch is huge enough commercially.

The womenfolk does this best; cleaning and drying fishes for consumption and sale. The catch is endlessly supplied by the lake. This relates the importance of Tonle Sap to the Khmer people.

Notice the banks of the canal. Bunleat said that the annual flooding brings good as the soil is renewed in a fertilization process, thus turning the banks into sites that are best for growing cash crops such as peanuts, maize, root vegetables and rice.

 We saw clumps of crops surfacing all over the banks.
Indeed the Tonle Sap brings food to many.

 See how the crops are watered? The irrigation method is not sophisticated but definitely effective enough for the locals to tap enough water for their crops. This is how ways are created for needs.


Mechanization is also included to harvest the various grains.


 Bunleat revealed that many of the locals refuse to go to urban towns for a living for they are comfortable in the agricultural activities.Many young able-bodied men are available for these activities.

After harvesting , the grains are packed in sacks ready to be brought to towns maybe through middle men and for sale. The physically active folks are healthier than many town folks for the air and environment is definitely cleaner. But when some have tasted the luxuries of urban living . they may not want to be here.

A simple hut, with simple needs. Perhaps that's the way to living; no cares and woes. Just simple joys.

Given a choice, they however may still want to escape the complexities of urbanization and stick here. But we saw that as hard life; no astro, no whatsapp, no facebook...




I saw this young lad passing piles of firewood to his mum; so obliging. That's simplicity.

That's how the boat people congregate and have a lifestyle here. Bunleat revealed that they are Vietnamese people. Why? Sara quickly chipped in; what kind of papers do they have? Are they legal? How come they are putting up here?  It is best you read up about them.


This is a school for the Vietnamese children.I was thrilled to see it. I kept asking Bunleat do they go for tertiary education? He said no. I asked why. No more whys he said. Some children are really more fortunate than others. While many have tasted modernization and all that is bad and evil, the simple folks here remain simple. Do they know what they are missing? Or are they missing anything?

I observe with great interest how local boat vendors make a living in retail. So I can see she houses many types of goods for domestic use. Fun.



Service for local boats perhaps?

That unmistakable Angkor Beer; good for hot days and quenching too ! 
They maybe rural but they sure can drink.
 Boat making industry? After all the famous durable teak is so easily available.

I was told in the evening the locals gather for communal activities; sing and drink for weddings and occasions. Another form of life.

For the Singapore-based sisters, the ride along Tonle Sap was an eye-opener and they enjoyed every moment of it. Back to basics and simplicity. We need that touch once in a while to get back to reality.

The Tonle Sap provided enough rice and fish for the builders of Angkor Wat and the rest of cicilization back then. Indeed the lake is the country's saviour providing needs and means for life. Khmer is deeply indebted to this gift of God.

Tonle Sap, the whisperer of hope.

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