Tuesday, May 20, 2014

The Enlightened Walk

What is Siem Reap without the history behind it?
Influences of Hinduism and Buddhism are strong but their influence changed from time to time. 
Most of the temples here started with Hinduism and later Buddhism took a stronger position.
Some originated as Hindu temples; while a couple were Buddhist ones.
So, those who are religiously fervent will find the walk around the ruins of Angkor Wat more meaningful as they trace the history behind it.
We were more interested to see the ruins as one of the Seven Wonders of the world and the architectural beauty behind them. We wonder at the work of people of the past; though primitive in many ways and yet built a history that even modern mankind find it difficult to construct.


This is our tour guide; Bunleat, if not mistaken. My memory is short.
He is knowledgeable, well-informed and feels helpless about the plight of his country at times.
He is a holder of many degrees and finally resorted to the fact that the money is in tourism.
Many graduates of all sorts and forms somehow get themselves associated with this industry.
I asked him: Aren't you all grateful that the temples were constructed? In the name of religion and history, the temples have made the otherwise less privileged nation a renown part of the world. Money from tourism is a good sustaining factor for the Khmer land.
He nodded and commented that many lives had been sacrificed too. But what is it that needs no sacrifice?


That's me with Grace. She is a good girl. Together with Esther they planned the itinerary and the second day trip was on Esther whom I believe does research before she embarks on a plan. Sometimes her plans work, at others they fail too because she has high class taste. Very difficult lady to please. See that umbrella? I bought it in the streets without which the trip would have been disastrous. It was so very hot.

Photography is what Esther is best at. No one in the home can take photos like her. She scolds me quite seriously at the way I butcher my photos. But who can match her difficult ways? So meticulous about things.
The moat that lines the perimeter of the temple is beautiful.
This panoramic lake scene caught us as we gasped open-mouthed.
Serene, peaceful and you could just leave everything and live there.


All around the grounds were woods that were home to the hard wood; teak.
Teak is so very popular in art and craft and everything woody.
Furniture made of teak stays good for centuries.
Dad said the diameter of the tree trunks would put those back home look miniature.
Somehow the species grow best under the tropical climate here.
Dad looked at envy as he reflected on the challenges in his job; looking for hard wood.




The question from Bunleat. Which is taller ? The building in the background or the trees?
You can read the minds of the family members by their profession. 
Grace and Sara said the trees.
Dad and Esther both screeched out : the building la.
I pretended I did not hear so I did not have to answer.
What about you? 
Which is higher?


The original old look; untouched and ancient. They evoked a nostalgia as one imagines the works of craftsmen of the past. They did not have to go to school to build and architecture is nothing lesser. So brilliant.



Of course, the city folks crawled up the window slots just for that shot. 5 panels for 5. So appropriate. It is good to seem childlike and dumb; taking photos like that. But we had fun.Good family fun without inhibitions.


Next we were told to observe the building from this angle. Bunleat said it is one of the best angles. We followed instruction and believed it was so. So good to follow instructions and not give. No need to think. Agree?
The next instruction was even more hilarious.
Bunleat insisted that we took photos running around so that we would be seen all around it ! Ahaa.


 We ran and stopped here and there as we listened to him. Run, stop, run...

How do you like this final display ? We are everywhere ! Bunleat said that's what tourists like to do.
Fierce posings.
But forever cherished.
How to produce anther family photo like the above again?


As you go near the temple proper, there were stories of rehabilitation and reconstruction of broken parts.
The World Heritage body comes in for works.
So were told that Korean and Japanese aids are prominent and we wondered why.
Bunleat's version was that these foreigners love Siem Reap and are finding reasons to reside there. 
So they pour in their financial assistance.
Do you believe?
Also the Japanese or is it the Koreans have built a 200 million mall in Phnom Penh just to confirm their social obligation to this land. Or perhaps the Khmer authorities had never requested for compensation for the second world war?


We were informed that efforts were ongoing to preserve leaks and broken pillars.
Angkor Wat was built without mortar to hold the stones together.
Notches were the one that held the building together and not nails.
The notches were also used to drain off excessive water that may damage the building.


The history behind all the gods are difficult to understand. I must confess I did not remember much but it has a strong connection to deities and spirits of the then civilization. But I remembered that the influence of Hinduism switched to Buddhism under different rulers.So the temple had Hindu gods or Buddha depending on the reigning influence.But there was definitely a strong history behind the drawings and sketches pinned on the walls. 
Rich pasts.


Whilst the past is rich, the present is just as colourful. There were depictions of deities all too ready to take photos for a dollar.Tourism is both present, past and future.


Look at those steps. They were steps to the upper rooms of worship for kings and rulers.It is a challenge for old bodies.I looked at them with despair. Do you think I could make it?

I definitely do not hope to have to walk in this manner before I venture into something so challenging. But this lady is brave. She scaled the steep climb and reached her destination safely. It was a laborious climb but she determinedly did it. Kudos. After I observed her bravery, what did I do? You can make the best guess.




At the upper rooms where the elite worshipped, there were indications that there were pools of water where some form of worship could have been carried out.




I could not keep my eyes away from these two groups of children. Life is like that. All are born under different circumstances.At a tender age, survival is vital for them who are on the right. They tap on the remnants of tourism for living. They will still grow strong and well. The more fortunate one on the left has a chance for the best in life. Well, that's life.

Bunleat related that the steps are narrow and steep as servants had to almost 'crawl' up and not able to walk on the steps to upper rooms. This is to depict the status of the people back then. So sad.

But there are some unscrupulous thieves who are bold enough to do this. Steal. They are not afraid of anybody. They would do that; not afraid of retributions. Lim told us that the heads of the images are worth quite a bit. They spoil the image of the country. 




That's the library where books and Analects are kept.



Both the sisters are standing on a special place; the Echo room. Bunleat said it was the room where the 2000 concubines poured out their woes and after the process, get enlightened and relieved.
So the sisters did just that.


The tour guide know his stuff well. He said if we looked up and down we would find ourselves in the centre of the temple or was it the world? Tourists would be invited to stand and put their foot prints here.


Yes, center of everything.



Tourists are aplenty and they are mostly Koreans and Japanese. Why again?
Their affiliation is strong for this place.
Strange.

The locals believe that Angkor Wat was built on sand and stone surrounded by a huge moat.The water in the moat is to stabilize the building and so Angkor Wat is earthquake free. It will collapse when the moat dries up. So there should not be a day when the moat becomes dry for that is the end of the temple. Is it true? Angkor Wat will be self destroyed, as support is from the equilibrium created by the presence of the water in the moat, if one day should the moat dry up.
Yet to see.
Stories from Bunleat.

What a walk.

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